HAWES TO WHITBY

SATURDAY 28^TH

Well we covered most points north, south, east and west of Hawes, some days only driving thirty miles or so and today moved on to Whitby on the east coast.  We spent some time at Fountain Abbey, a world heritage site near Ripon.  Monks built this enormous place in the 12^th century.   It has fallen into disrepair however the internal stone work is beautiful and the colour of the stones amazing.  Later in the 1700s some Lake Gardens were constructed and these are now being restored.  The grounds are huge.  At the top of one of the surrounding hills was the Anne Boleyn seat overlooking the Abbey and grounds.  There was a headless statue near the seat and Ian wondered if it was of Anne Boleyn after she was beheaded or if someone had pinched the head!  

We drove across the Moors and the landscape changed dramatically.  Much more agriculture and as we came closer to Whitby we drove through low heathland which is dark purple and so different from the bright greens we have been in in the Yorkshire Dales.  We have found a little studio apartment where we will stay for the next week.

Near Natby.  So typical of the landscape in the Yorkshire Dales.  Beautiful green grass and fields with the stone fences and little shelters for the sheep scattered around.  Friday was a lovely sunny day.

The coloured stone work inside Fountain Abbey

A portion of Fountain Abbey and the grounds leading to the Water Gardens.

Thursday 26^TH

It was a nice morning and after breakfast Ian set off on a walk along the Pennine track in the opposite way to yesterday.  He had no intention of going as far as he did however now feels he can call himself a fell walker.  He climbed quite a hill outside Hawes.  I  the rounds of the shops trying to replace two wine glasses that I managed to break last night.  I finally found some in the Electrical shop.  Obviously Hawes  has not got a lot of shops and those that are here seem to sell the oddest of things.  The chemist sells wine, the lolly shop sells tobacco.  The supermarket is a nightmare.   They have a row full of chocolates however trying to find tea was impossible and I finally had to ask. The young fellow isn’t particularly friendly and pointed to the small shelf as if I must have been blind not to see it. 

When Ian arrived back we headed out to see the Ribblehead Viaduct, another of Ian’s obsessions with railways.  This is a pretty impressive structure across a valley.  We had seen it before and crossed it in the train from Settle to Garsdale Head 10 years ago.  After a photo stop and a walk to the viaduct we drove on to Horton-In-Ribblesdale where we had a late lunch and chattered to the lady serving for ages.  People are so friendly and always ready to tell us about the area.   We then drove on to Settle, had a walk around and drove back to Hawes.

Ribblehead Viaduct stretching across the valley

WEDNESDAY 25^TH

Ian had discovered a little bridge just off the Pennine track and wanted me to go and see it so we walked up a bit till we came to the track and then across the fields, through the sheep to the Packhorse bridge obviously built for the packhorse to cross the creek.  Whilst there a couple of hardcore walkers from Chester came along and we chattered to them for a while.  They walk Mt Snowdon as a weekend treat however were in Hawes for a week for a boys week.  It seems they had it all sorted.  One was the chef, one the barman, another in charge of the washing etc.  Not sure what the other three did.  They were on a rest day today and just taking a stroll. 

We came back to town, had a light lunch in a tea room,  very old style.  They advertised good coffee which is why we went there however the coffee was not good.  After lunch we walked up to the Creamery (cheese factory)  and had a taste of the various cheese.  Left with a few goodies.  Later in the afternoon we drove back up to the tops to find the Buttertubs which we didn’t find.  These are so named because, it is said, that in past years the people that bought the butter to the markets in Hawes stored any that wasn’t sold in these wet holes in the ground until the next week.  The people living next to the cottage can not understand why we can’t find them and even offered to take us there before we go.   Whilst looking around the mist came across again and we sat watching it roll across the hills and down into the valley. 

 

Ian loves a chat, this is at the little Packhorse bridge.

TUESDAY  24^th

The mist that fell over the valley late yesterday was still hanging on this morning when we woke.  Ian went off for a walk after breakfast and when he came back we went off driving towards Skipton.  It was hard to see very far and as we climbed higher the mist became thicker.  We went through a lot of little villages with the quaintest of names and finally stopped at Buckden for lunch at the Buck Inn.  The pubs have some amazing names as well.  After lunch we continued on and stopped at Bolton Abbey.  This is enormous and just one of hundreds that was demolished by King Henry V111 during the reformation.  The nave survived the demolishing and was used as the Parish church for the locals and is still in use today.  Right next to it is a huge property and manor house belonging to the Duke of Devenshire, just one of his many properties in England and Ireland.  Beautiful grounds.  By the time we had reached Embsay just outside Skipton it was after 5.00 so had a quick look at the Railway (missed the last steam train ride) and headed back to Hawes.   Although the mist had made it hard to see much we discovered the colours changing on the trees and this certainly adds to the colours and vista in the valleys.  Some trees are already quite yellow. 

Looking down to Burnsall with the misty hills in the background. The road winds around through these little villages.

 

MONDAY 23^RD 

Ian set off on a walk after breakfast around some of the villages and fields.  He was exhilarated when he arrived back and had been walking across fields with the sheep and chatting to various people along the way.  The overcast morning turned into a beautiful day by lunch time.   I had been out and about Hawes looking in the various shops (that took all of half an hour),  and stocked up on some groceries etc. 

We had lunch in a little tea room in the centre and then came back to the cottage for a while before going out later in the afternoon driving further up into the hills and around the tops.  Whenever we stop and walk around people stop and chat.  By the time we started home the sun was setting and because of the smoke around there was some nice colour in the sky.   As we came closer to Hawes the mist had started to move across the valley again and it was really thick when we arrived back. 

The fields are so green and even better when the sun shines.  The dry stone fences divide the little paddocks up and make great patterns.  This is sheep country.

SUNDAY 22ND

We left Keswick yesterday morning, and although the local man assured us it was going to be a nice day, the mist was still clinging to the mountains and across the lakes as we drove away.   By lunch time we had arrived at Hawes in the Yorkshire Dales and had left the wet behind however it was still clouding.  Our main mission was to find somewhere to stay for the next week and with luck managed to get the last cottage left in Hawes.   It’s a cute little one up, one down stone place attached to other buildings. Not sure what it’s original use would have been, maybe a store room or something. 

This morning we went for a walk around Hawes and up around another little village.  They all seem to run into each other.  The views are lovely from high up and although we are in the town there are sheep in the paddocks around us giving it a rural feeling.

This afternoon we went driving around, probably not even 10 miles, around more villages and up onto the hills where we had some nice views over the valleys. 

Overlooking Hawes and the fields beyond

FRIDAY 20^TH  

We woke this morning to actually see a pale blue sky however by the time we had breakfast it was past and the clouds and mist have rolled over yet again.

Yesterday the forecast was for it to clear around 3.00pm so we went off to our local pub for lunch and then to Grasmere Lake and village however the promise didn’t come to being.  Grasmere is a really pretty little place and obviously very expensive to live in.  We went for a walk however unless you are prepared to tramp through the long wet grass it is impossible to get right down to the lake except near a café where there are boats for hire.  I went down to the edge and started taking photos.  Ian stayed and talked to the man and noticed the sign that said if you wanted to take photos on his patch then you needed to spend money in his café so Ian bought a Kit Kat (big spender) and when I came back up I picked up some post cards after discovering that he was the photographer.  He certainly has a great place to get some interesting shots.  Just missed a Photography Exhibition when we got back into the village.  

There are dozens of walking tracks around the area and walkers are well catered for with places to park their cars on these little narrow roads.  It’s hard to find other places to stop and take in the sights as you drive around. 

WEDNESDAY 18TH
We booked into a cottage at Thirlspot just a short distants from Keswick on Saturday and have spent the last days bunkered down in the rain.  We discovered the local pub half a mile away and have become regulars there for lunch, they started greeting us yesterday.   Today was predicted to be better so took a punt and drove up to the old slate mine Honister Pass and then back to Rosthwait where I celebrated my birthday with a beautiful local trout freshly caught and poached followed by a sticky pudding covered in toffee sauce and a huge bowl of fresh thick cream which I shared with Ian.
We did this drive 10 years ago when the mine was just as it was originally however it is now all commercial with tours, café etc so not half as good however the drive through the mountains and and around the lakes are stunning even though we have been in and out of showers all day. 

We haven't had any internet or phone service where we are staying so are currently sitting in Costa Café where we have discovered the best coffee in England so far. 
It has been nice being in a cottage during this drenching the alternative in a B & B room would have been awful, at least we can move about and read and watch TV etc.  

LAKES DISTRICT

FRIDAY 13^TH   Ian went off in one direction this morning looking for some Standing Stones which he didn’t find and I went off the other way for a wander along the beach.  The tide was out and there is plenty of sand between the cliff and the water.  I walked along taking photos, I think for the sake of it, and down to the jetty which only reaches half way in low tide.  We met back at the B & B and decided to go to Ennerdale Water, another lake a few miles away.  We found a car park and took one of the paths down to the edge of the lake and walked along for a while.  It was then time to find a pub for lunch.  The one we chose is where the Coast to Coast walkers stay on the first night after leaving St Bees so Ian feels he has at least touched part of the walk.  After seeing the terrain and being in the misty rain yesterday I think he is glad he is not trying to do the walk which has always been a bit of a dream for him.  

After lunch we seemed to take a lot of little roads back towards Seascale and finally wove our way back via St Bees.  The Sellafield Nuclear Station is between St Bees and Seascale is being decommissioned which they say will take between 50 and 100 years.  It is obviously a big part of the economy for the area and many of the workers stay in the accommodation around here.  The traffic at 3.30 is horrendous.  There must be hundreds of people employed there. 

Ian on the path at Ennerdale Waters.  Everything is very green still..  We have't seen any colour change so far. 

THE LAKES DISTRICT

THURSDAY 12^TH  -  It was a good decision to leave the train trip till today because we had a nice morning and managed to get the trip from Ravenglass to Dalegarth.  This was about a fifty minute trip in the tiniest carriages with a very small steam engine.  We had a hour there and then the return trip.  It was lunch time when we came back to the car and decided to drive on to the Bridge Inn at Stanton Bridge.  Another nice lunch however we have decided to give coffees a miss.  So far we have not been able to get a decent cup for days. 

We then drove to Wast Water.  This is the deepest Lake in the Lakes district.  It also claims to have the smallest church and the highest mountain however by the time we arrived at the end of the lake it was impossible to see the top of the mountain (Mt Scafell Pike) as the cloud and mist had moved in and on the way back it started really raining again.  Obviously it pays to get going early and do the sights before the rain comes across.  We have booked into the B & B at Seascale for tonight and tomorrow night so hopefully we will get a chance tomorrow to have a look around this coastal area. 

Misty rain starts moving in while we were at Wast Waters.

ENGLAND

WEDNESDAY 11^TH   -  It was overcast when we set out this morning and soon came into showers and misty rain.   We called at Lytham St Anne’s Golf Club for a quick look and then proceeded to get slightly lost, finishing up at Blackpool.  This was not the road we wanted to take at all however the drive through the streets was fascinating to say the least.  There must be a couple of miles of amusement places all the way along the shore line.  It is all pretty ghastly and not somewhere I will yearn to go back to, 

We finally found our way to the road we wanted.  Ian was keen to go to St Bees which is where the coast to coast walk starts on the west coast.  Not that he is planning to do the walk, he just wanted to see the place.  We stopped at a little place, Crook, for lunch in a country pub and then through to Ravenglass where there is another steam train ride.  After checking the timetable decided to leave it till tomorrow in the hope that the weather will be better.  St Bees didn’t do much for us either so we backtracked and came to Seascale and found a B & B opposite the beach.  It is really misty with low cloud so not much to see. 

It really was miserable when we arrived at Seascale.  This is the view from our room. 
I'm sure it is great on a nice sunny evening but tonight you almost can't see the horizon.

WALES TO ENGLAND

TUESDAY 10^TH   We went off after breakfast and found the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct over a deep gorge (World Heritage Listed) allowing narrow boats to travel on the Canal from Llangollen via Trevor on route to Froncysyllte.  Quite a marvel of engineering.  It was impossible to photograph the whole structure because of it’s immense size however interesting watching the boats going along the canal.  We then drove on to Chester and parked in the Park and Ride and took the bus into the city.   This is a very old walled city and we did the walk around the wall which was up and down and around about 2 miles but felt like 20.   We then found a nice little French café to have some lunch before going back to the car and taking the M road from Chester to Preston and then out to Lytham St Ann’s where we are tonight. 

Although it has only been about 180 ks it has been a long day and was even worse when we had trouble finding a bed for the night.  Finally Ian went for a walk and found two places.  The first had a room but no sheets of the beds so sent him next door which thankfully had a room.  This is the first time we have had trouble finding somewhere to stay.  Hopefully it is not a sign of things to come in England.    One thing we won’t miss in England are the Welsh signs.  Everything is now in both Welsh and English and it was really hard reading the signs.  Welsh is not a language you can relate to.  Apparently it is the same in Scotland too.  All very PC. 

OLD ROMAN BRIDGE INSIDE THE WALL AT CHESTER

WALES

SUNDAY 8^TH.    Ian decided he wanted to do the tram ride up to the Great Orme so we went back into the town centre and caught the tram up to top.  This is equally as steep as the trams in San Francisco and at times felt you might have to get out and push.  The weather was much clearer this morning so we had better views from the top.  Back down again and on our way to Snowdonia National Park. 

We spent the night at Llanberis which is where the train to the summit of Mt Snowdon starts.  We had plenty of time to walk around in the afternoon and really enjoyed the place.  It is a hive of activity because this is where people come to start the walks around Mt Snowdon and other surrounding mountains.   The landscape is really spectacular with lots of rugged mountains.  The dark moody skies really added to it this afternoon. 

Mountains around Lake at Llandudno.  There were many slate mines around the area although most are now not operating.

 

MONDAY 9^th.  We had booked on the 10.00am train to the summit not realizing that this wasn’t the steam train however Ian kept telling me it was the journey and not how we got there and he was right, it didn’t matter that we were being pulled up by a diesel engine instead of steam.  The scenery was fantastic all the way to the top.  Clouds drifted across the mountains with filtered sunlight and as we got closer to the top the mist just enveloped the whole landscape.   Ian had decided to walk down and I was tempted to do it with him and tossed up but thought I would get better views from the height of the train.  Ian came down in just under two hours and said it was really hard as the path was rugged and hard on the knees so glad I came in the train.    After lunch in a local café we drove around Mt Snowdon and on to Llangollen where we are tonight.   This was a great drive and we stopped a few times for photos and sightseeing. 



  

This was a lucky grab shot at the summit of Mr. Snowdon.  I went out to the platform so that I could get a window seat going down and just as I did the mist moved across momentarily.  Two seconds later it was covered in mist again. 

 

SATURDAY 7TH

Saturday.  It rained all night and was cold and miserable this morning.  At breakfast we discovered from the other three guests that it was a Steam train weekend in the area.  We drove it to Caernarfon and along with numerous others caught the little train to Waunfwr, a short 30 minute trip.  At each of the stations the enthusiasts were there in numbers armed with cameras and videos recording the trains as they came through.  Many were recording the whistles; apparently each engine has its own special sound.  Our plan was to have lunch at Waunfwr however it was raining and we couldn’t see a pub nearby so decided to catch another train back to Caernarfon and have lunch there which we did.  It was still only early afternoon so drove out to Beaumaris and then to Conwy looking at the scenery and dodging the showers.  We then came back to Llandudno and drove up to Great Ormes Head around a very steep road to the top.  It was blowing an absolute gale at the top and the views were limited because of the rain but well worth the drive.  We are staying at Llandudno tonight.   This is another of the popular resort type places.  Loads of Guest houses and restaurants with lots of people in the streets.  We found a B&B out a bit away from the main area so it is nice and quiet. There is one of those Piers we keep seeing in these holiday places along with other kitch entertainment around the waterfront.    

We have caught up with the election results which were no surprise.  Haven't been able to find out the Lynne results though.  We assume David Gillespie won however look forward to seeing the final figures. 

Looking across the Bay from Llandudno towards Beaumaris.  The clouds have been dark and heavy all day with the rain.

                   

After leaving St Davids yesterday morning we drove through Fishguard and on to Aberystwyth.  This drive mostly by the coast and through lots of little villages.  These little villages are really lovely but driving through them can be quite harrowing as the roads are so narrow with cars parked on the kerb which virtually leaves a narrow bit of road for cars in both directions.  Somehow patience and driving manners means people just wait their turn to drive through.   At Aberystwyth (a decent sized town0 we had lunch. We found a bookshop  Ian found a couple of books to read.   He kept looking lost without something to read and I kept finding him sitting on a chair with his hands on his lap looking like a little schoolboy.   We then caught the steam train to Devil’s Bridge.  This was a one hour trip both ways up up through some lovely mountain landscape.  We had been to Devil’s bridge before so didn’t pay to punish ourselves and walk down to the bottom again, instead had a cream tea at the tearoom nearby and waited till it was time to make the return journey. 

We then drove on to Borth, a nice place along the Cardigan Bar coast found a B & B and settled in for the night.   Right across the road was the ‘beach’ so went across for the sunset which was really spectacular.

Today we continued to drive around the coast to Tywyn where there was another steam train trip however missed it by a few minutes so continued on to Dolgellau which is a little way inland.  The weather forecast was for heavy rain however it was still sunny when we arrived there so Ian decided to do the 8 mile walk along the old railway line to Barmouth.  He had seen this on one of the Julia Bradbury walks on TV so was keen to do it.  Whilst he was doing that I sorted out the internet modem I purchased a few days ago and have been having trouble with then looked around the village and read until he arrived back.   We are currently near Caernarfon and did meet the rain as we drove along. 

Part of the path and steps down to the bottom of Devils Bridge.  We did this hike 10 years ago on a misty morning and didn't need to do it again.  It's called Devils Bridge because there are three bridges, on top of the other built at various times across the gorge.

The sunset at Borth,  Note the rocks in the foreground.  These were put there at great expense and a wall built to protect the houses across the road when global warming causes the water to flood the streets in 30 years time!

Wednesday 4th.  We have continued to drive around the south coast of Wales going in and out of little villages along the way.  We've been amazed at how many people are visiting the 'seaside' areas, some just totaling bustling with tourists.   The coastline is really rugged and I have found the landscape really foreign and difficult to photograph.   The tides are incredible,   We stayed at Llansteffan and I could see there was going to be some nice colour on the water so walked down to the beach and by the time I got across the rocky area and then across the sand flats I felt I'd walked miles.  You then come across signs in carparks warning that at high tide the carpark could well be covered in water.  We are currently at St. Davids.  It was time to do some laundry so decided to stay two nights.  Today we have wandered around the little village which is just lovely and visited the Cathedral.  This is a massive building built in the 12th century.  It was built in the hollow between two hills so that it was hidden from the Vikings although they did attack it seven times.  Tomorrow we move on further north west. 

Evening - low tide,  Llansteffan

This cruise ship with sails cruised passed at sunset whilst we were at White Sands Beach, St. Davids last night.

After flying into Heathrow arriving on Saturday morning we collected a car and started driving west towards Wales.   We stopped at a Pub called 'Bug & Spider' near a little village called Hilmarten and were most disappointed when they didn't serve lunch - bugs and spiders sounded pretty good for lunch.  They sent us off to another pub in the village however we soon gave up on that after getting stuck in some little streets not made for full size cars.  On we went to Calne and found the Westbrook pub and very pleased we didn't settle for Bugs earlier.  Had a great meal here and on the way out asked about B&Bs. The Brookside B&B was unanimously recommended and directions, just down the road and around the awful bend and it's right there.  True to their word we soon found it and within 5 minutes felt we were arriving to visit an old friend.  The hostess, Christine, has a happy knack of making you feel at home immediately.  We were glad to stretch out and have a rest for a while before going off to see the Caen Hill Locks later in the afternoon.  This is an amazing engineering feat and wonderful that these canals are now being restored and used again.   I watched a long boat going through a couple of locks.   The man was taking the boat through, the lady walking along unwinding the lock to fill the next level.  I chatted to her briefly.  They are going to Reading and I asked how long that would take.  'Depending on how many pubs we stop at along the way - we should make it by Thursday though'.  Must be a few pubs along the way.  She said today was their first day and she was worn out, they were nearly up to the top of the 16 locks. 

Sunday.  Breakfast this morning was very entertaining.  We heard numerous funny stories about the comings and goings of life in the local village and Christine's sense of humor really came to life.  Colin, the husband was less outgoing and just kept coming back and forth with whatever was needed in the dining room.  Ian always likes to know about people's heritage and as their surname is Bennemousant asked about Colin's.  French Moroccon says Christine and do you know what it means?   Well 'benne' is 'son of'' and mousant is miserable one.  I rest my case.  He can't even eat fish and chips without coming home, serving it on a plate and using a knife and fork.  Colin just continues to smile and go back and forth to the kitchen.
Once on our way we headed towards Wales and stopped at the Clifton Suspension Bridge across the Avon near Birmingham.  Another wonderful piece of engineering.  It is obviously a popular walk across and back.  Cars pay a 50 pence toll to cross.

Next stop was lunch at a pub at Rhiwderyn where we were greeted by a young girl who said 'you're Australian, I booked my ticket to Australia yesterday - I leave on 19th October.  The meal was good and the service even better. 

As it was still early we decided to head down towards the coast and drove to Barry and then thought Barry Island sounded like an interesting place.  Might even be a lighthouse I guess.  Well it turned out to be the most crass place we have even seen.  Packed with weekend day visitors, carnivals, markets noise, cars, just awful.  Glad to get out of the place.   Back up and further around the coast we are now at Ewenny on the South West Coast of Wales for the night.